"I never met a
skunk I didn't like"
-- Anonymous

Photo by Art Wolfe
Skunks are members of the weasel family (Mustelidae). There
are four species of skunk in North America: striped skunks (Mephitis mephitis), hooded
skunks (M. macroura), spotted skunks (Spilogale putorius), and scarce hognosed skunks
(Conepatus mesoleucus).
The striped and spotted skunks are common in San Diego
County's rural and urban areas; the striped skunk is larger and more common than the
spotted skunk. Although their markings vary, these bushy- tailed creatures are always black
and white and absolutely unmistakable.
Striped skunks measure 20 to 30 inches long (including the
wide, bushy tail) and weigh 6 to 10 pounds (about the size of a house cat) and have two
wide, white stripes on their backs that meet on the head. Spotted skunks are about half
that size with white spots instead of stripes. Skunks have small heads and eyes, pointed
snouts, and short legs that make them seem to waddle. Their strong forefeet and long nails
make them excellent diggers. They tend to be slow-moving animals, never in much of a
hurry, and are generally poor climbers.
A litter of from one to seven young, averaging five, is
born from late April to early June.
An individual's territory may span 30 to 40 acres. In the
wild, skunks tend to den in shallow burrows or hollow logs. They are hardly ever found
more than two miles from a water source. In urban territories, skunks den beneath
buildings, decks, dumps, and woodpiles. They are capable of burrowing a den a foot or so
underground, with well-hidden entrances. They like warm, dry, dark, and defensible areas;
most house basements and crawl spaces qualify.
| Skunks are generally nocturnal and begin foraging at
sunset. Skunks are omnivorous and help keep the rodent population in check. They often
travel five to ten miles within their territory at night looking for field mice and other
small rodents as well as lizards, frogs, birds, eggs, garbage, acorns, and fallen fruit. |

Photo by Hal S. Korber
|
They also dig for insects, especially beetles, larvae, and
earthworms. Their diet includes black widow spiders and scorpions. Being carrion eaters,
they help keep roadways and neighborhoods clean. An estimated 70 percent of a skunk's diet
consists of insects considered harmful to humans.
The skunk's chief enemies are automobiles and great horned
owls, both of which kill skunks in large numbers. Skunks rarely attack unless cornered or
defending their young. If approached by an intruder and unable to flee, a skunk will
usually fluff its fur, shake its tail, stamp the ground with its front feet, growl, stand
on its hind legs, turn its head and spit to scare the potential attacker. If those
techniques do not work, it will lift up its tail and spray.
The chemical skunks spray at their enemies is a sulfur
compound called N- bulymercaptan. It is ejected in a fanlike pattern from two small
openings near the animal's rectum. The glands that produce the chemical hold enough for
five or six full-powered sprays, but skunks seldom spray without warning or cause.
Although they have sharp teeth, they rarely use them in defense, because their spray is
most accurate and effective at a range of up to 15 feet.
Having adapted well to neighborhoods, it's not uncommon to
find skunks and domestic cats dining peacefully together. There have been cases of skunks
entering homes through pet doors, dining with the family cat and finding a quiet closet or
empty bed to spend the night. As long as the skunk does not feel threatened, it won't
spray.
With their slow, waddling gait and bushy tail, these gentle
mammals are delightful to see from a distance, and play an important role in keeping
nature in balance -- the natural way.
"Snuggles," Photo by Shelor Brumbeloe, the Skunk
Lady2 Coexisting with Skunks
Skunks are very adaptable and often find food and nesting
sites around human habitations. The best protection against them is to modify your habitat
to limit resources available to them.
TIPS
1. Do not feed the skunks. They can easily
become dependent on human food sources.
2. Never leave pet food outside.
3. Never discard edible garbage where skunks
can get to it.
4. Secure garbage containers and eliminate
their odors. Use a small amount of ammonia or cayenne pepper in the garbage to discourage
scavenging.
5. A persistent, faint skunk odor around a
hole leading under a foundation or deck indicates a skunk may be present. To find out,
cover the hole with loose dirt; if a skunk is in residence, it will dig out during the
night. Allow three days for this test; if dirt remains undisturbed, then close the opening
with masonry, boards, or hardware cloth.
6. Install one-way doors on entrances to skunk
dens, allowing the skunk to leave at night but barring it from re-entering. Watch for any
new holes. Do not use one-way doors during May through August, when babies may be in the
den. If the mother cannot return, the babies will starve. This is inhumane and can also
cause odor problems.
7. Place mothball-filled socks and/or sprinkle
cayenne pepper around your yard to discourage digging.
8. Start a nontoxic insect- control program
(especially for grubs) to discourage digging.
9. Fences are effective as long as they are
buried at least 1 1/2 feet in the ground.
10. If a skunk strays into your garage, leave
a door to the outside open and let the skunk exit on its own.
11. Securely enclose
poultry, especially at night. Repair all openings in coop or
fencing. Fencing should extend at least 1 1/2 feet
underground to prevent skunks and other animals from digging under.
12. Debris and brush piles should be removed
or stacked neatly to eliminate suitable cavities.
13. Blow-up or plastic great horned owls may
be strategically placed and periodically moved to deter skunks.
14. Lighting up of denning sites and a
portable radio may cause the skunk to seek a more suitable habitat.
15. Keep pet doors closed at night to prevent
illegal entry by a skunk.
16. Keep fruit trees picked and don't leave
rotted fruit on the ground.
17. Restrict use of birdseed. Skunks are
attracted to it and to the birds and rodents that use the feeder.
18. If possible, eliminate outdoor sources of
water.
19. Battery operated flashing lights, tape
recorded human noises, scattered moth balls and ammonia-soaked rags strategically placed
may deter skunks from entering your yard.
20. Trapping and relocation of skunks is not a
recommended or viable alternative. Wild animals are territorial and like species will
simply take over the area vacated by the relocated or dead animal.
Sprayed by Skunks
If a person or an animal surprises a skunk in
a situation where neither can retreat, the skunk will spray in self-defense.
Skunk spray in human eyes is extremely
irritating and can cause temporary blindness, but no permanent damage. Flush eyes
liberally with cold water to ease irritation. Wash skin with carbolic soap and water,
tomato juice, or vinegar or Massengil douch. You may be able to save clothing by washing
repeatedly in vinegar water and/or hanging it outside for a month or so before
dry-cleaning. For the worst sprays, however, it may be best to discard or burn the
clothing.
When your pet is sprayed, the quicker you take
action, the more completely you can remove the odor. Wash your pet with tomato juice,
Massengil douch, or diluted vinegar to counteract the chemical makeup of the skunk spray.
Skunk Off and similar preparations containing neutroleum alpha, available from some pet
stores, are effective.
Skunk Smell Remedy: 1 quart 3% peroxide, 1/4 c
baking soda, 1 tbs liquid hand soap. Mix all three ingredients together. Shampoo animal
thoroughly keeping out of eyes, nose and mouth. Soak 5 minutes. Rinse well.
Information provided by California Center
for Wildlife and the Fund for Animals.
Want to know more about skunks? Check out the fabulous Skunk and Opossum Page.

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